My Monte Carlo SStrategy.

"Sweet Trav" (thespunbearing)
03/23/2016 at 20:48 • Filed to: None

So, Recently I have decided that I’m going to hang onto the car that I built with my dad until the day I die. My job affords me a car allowance to at least drive something interesting (so long as it has four doors) day to day, - Case in point my 2015 Taurus SHO.

This means that my second car, a 1986 Monte Carlo SS is now a pleasure only vehicle. It doesn’t matter if it is reliable, sane, or comfortable. Though I have set a few rules 1. No wheel to wheel racing - the car has too much sentimental value to wreck. Track days and Autocross will be what the car is built for. 2. I want to keep an interior and some modicum of comfort. Yamahog and I did the Hot Rod Power Tour last year, and it was a lot of fun, I promised her that someday we would be “Long Haulers” and complete the journey. 3. I don’t want to cut the car up. While it is far from a pristine example, I don’t want to notch the frame, I don’t want to Mini-tub it, I don’t even want to cage it (though I do understand the necessity for safety at a certain point)

Given these rules, I have developed a road map for the car. A project that I’m sure Yamahog and my self will put in many, many hours of work for little gain. Let’s be real here, I’m trying to get a 1980's brick to corner here.

So the first thing on the list is to address the suspension.

I have looked at the various kits from many different manufacturers. (Hotchkis, UMI, QA1, Detroit Speed, BMR) and settled on the QA1 Stage 3 kit

As you can see it replaces almost every single component in the suspension with the exception of the rear axle and the spindles. Due to the relocation of the spring pressure on the shock mounts, I also plan on buying this piece from UMI

This brace re-enforces the G-body factory frame shock mounts, and adds some torsional stiffness to the vehicle.

I think that these two pieces should really shore up the suspension, the best that factory mounted parts can do. I also plan on updating the steering intermediate shaft with a Jeep Cherokee shaft, which removes the “rag-joint” in the factory GM column which adds lots of slop and a lack of feel into the wheel. Pro-forged makes a complete steering rebuild kit for the tie-rods, idler arm and center link all for a reasonable price.

Next on the list is tires. Tires are often the most important part of any car and improvement can be seen on most cars with simply going to a better tire.

I plan on getting these one of these two wheels next:

These are 17 inch reproduction of the factory “N90" wheel. I think they are a good looking design that allows for the use of Modern Rubber. Also in play are the heavier, but meaner looking Cragar D window’s in 17

These wheels have a certain NASCAR look that I appreciate, I also appreciate the fact that they are much heavier and much cheaper than the N90's. They will also allow for the mounting of modern rubber.

Modern rubber such as the RE-71R’s:

For those of you who don’t know what these tires are, they are apparently God’s gift to Autocrossers. They are relatively inexpensive, but their 200 UTQG treadwear means frequent replacement.

If you’re going to go fast, you need to stop fast, and the G-body brakes are woefully ill-equipped for that. Sure I could score some 99 and up 2wd Blazer twin piston calipers, spindles and wheel hubs, but I’m not a fan of sealed wheel bearings. Instead I’ll pick up this sweet kit from UMI. It has aluminum hubs and an adapter bracket to allow you use C5 Corvette twin piston aluminum calipers, rotors and pads.

Actually the Kit will allow for the use of C6 six piston units but requires 18 inch wheels, and at the moment 17 inch tires seem to be the sweet spot in performance vs cost. In the event I need to jump up to C6 brakes, I’d look to some sweet lightweight (but incredibly expensive) 18 inch Weld Wheels:

Once suspension, wheels, tires, and brakes are done, I can focus on making more efficient power. The current engine is a 350 4 bolt main block, bored .030 over for a displacement of 355 CID. I’ve got a mid-range Lunati Voodoo Cam and 10.3-1 compression. Make no mistake, I beat this engine like a rented mule, but it seems to be holding together. When it comes time for replacement, It’s LS swap all the way. Sure getting the fuel system and electronics in place will be a pain, but the cold start, stall free, and lack of carburetor floats is worth it. I plan on using an iron block 6.0l LQ9 as starting point and building it up from there:

LS9 Cam, Valve Springs and Retainers, GM Racing Lifters and a GM Muscle Car pan swap, along with the necessary adapters to get the engine to interface with my built 200-4R transmission will get me running right, quick and reliably and still lighter than a Gen 1 SBC.

The very last item on the list will be a T-56 Six-speed Manual swap. As much as I love manuals, this will easily be the most expensive part of the car, a T-56 to handle a good amount of power, with the pedal set, and clutch will easily set me back $6000 before all is said and I am rowing my own gears.

What do you think of my plan? What am I missing? How would you do this different? Let me know in the comments below.

DISCUSSION (45)

RallyWrench > Sweet Trav
03/23/2016 at 20:55

I’m really, really looking forward to reading about progress on this, that car is bitchin’. Sounds like you’ve got a thoughtful plan, but some big choices to make.

MUSASHI66 > Sweet Trav
03/23/2016 at 21:02

Ton of work, sentimental vehicle, chance of wrecking it... I would probably leave it as is - sweet stock SS, and buy a Miata some AutoX - you can probably buy a nice donor for the price of the Manual swap on yours. Any route you take, godspeed!

Sweet Trav > MUSASHI66
03/23/2016 at 21:05

Far from stock at this point. The problem is mostly stock, with a warmed over 350 just doesn’t do it for me like it when I was 16. I need to update it, even to a fun pro-touring car. While there are other cars I want, I feel that this one needs to be made into what it could have been.

DasWauto > Sweet Trav
03/23/2016 at 21:06

Is that UMI brace for the rear of the car? I ask because it looks like the QA1 front suspension will still use the spring perch on the frame and not put spring pressure through the shock mount. (Though the front spring perch and shock mount are effectively in the same place, I guess I’m being a bit pedantic).

Other than that, I love pro-touring setups so I like it. Aesthetics are subjective but I’d probably go for the Cragars myself, I think they look pretty badass on cars of this era.

Sweet Trav > DasWauto
03/23/2016 at 21:10

UMI is for the the rear. The front factory shock mount is fairly thick steel. I haven’t heard of anyone having any problems with the factory mounts not being strong enough. However the frame is lacking in torsional rigidity, which is where the rear shock mount brace comes in handy.

Danger > Sweet Trav
03/23/2016 at 21:20

I recommend buying this book.

https://play.google.com/store/books/de… It’s a Bible for g-body work. Ok, I’ll finish reading your post now.

Danger > Danger
03/23/2016 at 21:24

Also, if you’re going to push the handling, body bushings are a must. Many g-bodies didn’t even get all of the stock ones installed at the factory, and you can add the GNX style ones in addition to the stock ones.

Danger > Danger
03/23/2016 at 21:25

Also, I agree with keeping your favorite car forever!

Sweet Trav > Danger
03/23/2016 at 21:31

Body bushings are going to happen with the next paint job, as i am sure a frame off will be necessary by then. I’m torn between Poly and Natural Rubber.

JR1 > Sweet Trav
03/23/2016 at 22:44

Awesome plan a full build that will certainly make the car all you want and more. But are you concerned at all it is going to far from the original build with your dad? Mainly the engine is the heart and soul and you’re losing it with the LS swap.

As for the wheels I suggest sticking with the stock look. Something about original just seems more appealing to me.

Also I noticed you didn't say anything about exhaust is that done? If not side pipes. But not the obvious kind the kind like the Boss 302 hidden but you can see the tips by the rear wheels

AMGtech - now with more recalls! > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 02:41

Wouldn’t change a thing. Is perfect. Love that gen Monte.

crowmolly > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 07:58

Travis, what rear is in the car?

Sweet Trav > crowmolly
03/24/2016 at 08:28

It's a 7.5in with an Auburn Posi. 26 spline axles. Pretty weak I know. I'm hoping I can find an 8.5 GN/442 rear eventually.

Sweet Trav > JR1
03/24/2016 at 08:32

Kinja'd!!!

The exhaust has been done, just 2.5 in with some cheap turbo mufflers and long chrome tips, when I do the LS swap it will get re-done. 3in all the way back. I like the way the current exhaust looks and sounds, but it won't work with an LS swap.

Sweet Trav > JR1
03/24/2016 at 08:33

This engine has been a nightmare from day one. Nothing but problems, plus an LSX makes way more power with less effort and money than a Gen 1 SBC. Not to mention weight advantage going to an LS.

crowmolly > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 08:36

Woof. Yeah, that’s got to go.

Sweet Trav > crowmolly
03/24/2016 at 08:39

The odd thing about these rears is, I’ve seen them hold up to small blocks with fogger kits, but break behind a mild 350. I don’t plan on drag racing the car with slicks, so I’m not too worried about breaking it, but C-clips always make me nervous. Strange sells a bolt in S60 (Dana 60) for about $2500. I’ve seen 8.5's for about $1000.

crowmolly > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 08:41

Yeah, I think it’s all about the ratio and any shock to the gear teeth.

I know too many people that broke 7.5" rears on street tires around town to trust it with any real power.

yamahog > JR1
03/24/2016 at 08:46

We can make another coffee table out of the current engine :) and his dad’s still around to lend a hand on the upcoming stuff too.

Sweet Trav > crowmolly
03/24/2016 at 09:09

Speaking of shock they explode behind manuals for sure. Behind auto’s they tend to hold up reasonably well, behind manuals they are a time bomb

Sweet Trav > AMGtech - now with more recalls!
03/24/2016 at 09:13

You haven't driven it lol. I also plan to keep the same color scheme on the stripes but make it white instead of black. Too many Black Monte's running around.

shop-teacher > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 09:27

You’ve got me drooling. I’d go with the Crager wheels if it was mine.

Sweet Trav > shop-teacher
03/24/2016 at 09:47

Yeah, especially after the car is repainted white with the same stripe pattern. Those wheels would look awesome, but so heavy.

Nobi > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 09:51

You sir, are my hero. I forget how long I’ve wanted to build an LS powered G body Monte that corners. I say go for the NASCAR-lookalike wheels. Only deviation I’d go with is if money were no object, I’d snag an aluminum 5.3 and lighten the hell out of the internals to make a 327 c.i., 9000 RPM screamer which would fit with the road race mentality it would now have.

shop-teacher > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 09:55

Yeah, they are very heavy. At that point you have to decide which is more important to you: being competitive, or having fun? That’s a personal choice. They’re both great looking ... but dem Cragers!

Myself, I’m not a particularly competitive person, which is why I’m taking a ‘94 Roadmaster wagon on stock suspension with all season tires to a rallycross.

AMGtech - now with more recalls! > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 10:23

Oh no I meant after your planned upgrades. Should have said it will be perfect. If you plan on making it white I think tide steelies well look fantastic, but with black I think the alloys will look best. Not sure I’ve ever seen one in white, could be nice!

bob and john > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 10:30

Will the diff and the axles take the abuse? Is the diff LSD with a good ratio in it?

uofime-2 > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 10:54

Given your stated goals, poly makes sense.

JR1 > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 11:00

The current exhaust does look rather good

JR1 > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 11:00

Well if it is a nightmare then I can support your decision.

JR1 > yamahog
03/24/2016 at 11:01

Okay then that makes it better. And a engine coffee table is a must in any decorative house hold.

yamahog > JR1
03/24/2016 at 11:03

We already have one, but why not both? http://oppositelock.kinja.com/oppo-ration-v8…

uofime-2 > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 11:04

With an eye on the goal.

Might make sense to get 2 sets of wheels and tires, light, cheapish, strong, but not necessarily stylish for the track with those sticky tires. then whatever you want style wise for the street, those cragars look awesome.

Check out what your forums say for if you need the big 6 pot brakes, with hpde’s you might want them. Maybe you can figure some brake ducts out and keep the smaller ones.

Shell out the money for an aluminum LS, low weight is more important than displacement/power.

Ditch the OE cam and get something designed for higher rpm use.

Sweet Trav > Nobi
03/24/2016 at 11:36

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/4-8l-cr…

Dream Motor :

Sweet Trav > uofime-2
03/24/2016 at 11:39

So 6-pot brakes almost always require 18's IIRC the C6 Brakes are six piston and are a relatively cheap OE piece compared to the overpriced powdercoated Aftermarket monstrosities. That’s the cool thing about the UMI Kit you can use C5 or C6 calipers. An LS2 with a 4.8l Crank is the motor I would love, but we will see how easy they are to come by in the next few years. 6.0l truck blocks are very plentiful.

Sweet Trav > uofime-2
03/24/2016 at 11:41

Yeah, but according to a guy at work who did the ride for these cars, at GM back in the day, and now works on truck mounts, with softer body mounts you can maintain comfort even with delrin and super hard poly bushings underneath. I still want to drive the car on shitty michigan roads without need back surgery afterwards.

Sweet Trav > bob and john
03/24/2016 at 11:44

Well, the loads for an AutoX car vs a drag are are completely different, it has a 7.5 inch 10 bolt rear with 26 spline axles and a worn out auburn posi, which behind automatics seems to hold up alright for street use, but attached to a manual they are explosive devices in the making. For sure when the manual swap happens, ill need a better rear. I'm keeping my eyes out for an 8.5 inch grand national rear, which is much beefier and can be built to handle all kinds of power. but those are becomming more and more rare, so ill probably get an aftermarket rear end. I might put a detroit trutrack in it for the time being.

uofime-2 > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 11:53

The only reason I wasn’t saying you must do the 6 pot brakes is the requirement for larger wheels. I doubt Cragars or any wheel that style, even 18" ones, would fit with them and these cars look good with some sidewall.

That would be a very cool motor combo, with a little work and some money I’m sure you can make it happen.

uofime-2 > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 11:56

oh, that’s a good guy to know! I forgot about those Michigan roads, you have to have some nods to practicality!

Nobi > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 12:05

Holy crap, yes.

bob and john > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 12:14

Fair. I would go about trying to ditch the solid axle and go IRS if possible, but thats really the only thing id do different

Sweet Trav > bob and john
03/24/2016 at 12:18

http://www.schwartzperformance.com/1978-1988-g-bo…

If I could afford a 30k chassis, I would have IRS.

bob and john > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 12:29

in-board mounted brakes on that too.

thats going to make for fun pad changes.

Sweet Trav > bob and john
03/24/2016 at 12:31

If you can afford a 30k chassis, you can afford a lift lol

bob and john > Sweet Trav
03/24/2016 at 12:34

true.

well, that does seem to solves...all, almost everything you want for it.

go big or go home? your obviously planning on keeping the car for a long time, so.